saput or kampuh
Details
Title: saput or kampuh
Date created: c. 1973
Accession number: ITC 2022.2
Collector's Number: 1973.05
Place of creation: Associated with Indonesia - West Nusa Tenggara - Lombok; Collected in Indonesia - West Nusa Tenggara - Lombok - Mataram
Persistent link: https://explore.library.leeds.ac.uk/special-collections-explore/670938
Collection group(s): International Textile Collection
Description
A woven Balinese saput or kampuh (outer hip cloth for men). Made with gold metallic thread over black and white, creating the impression of a rich gold background with a raised pattern in white. The whole of the central panel is filled with a regularly repeated floral motif, with Tumpal motifs at both ends and complex border strips. The cloth consists of two separate panels sewn together.
ITC 2022.2 to ITC 2022.4 would be worn in combination by Balinese men during wedding ceremonies. The black kain (kamben or wastra in Balinese) is wrapped around the waist first and folded in front. Then the saput or kampuh, is wrapped around the waist. Since the kamben is wider than the saput it hangs down further then the saput. Then the narrow sabuk is tied tightly around the waist, partly in order to keep the kamben and saput in place but also because it is a requirement for anyone who enters a pura (Balinese Hindu temple) to wear a selendang or sabuk round the waist. The bridegroom would be bare chested and bare footed but would wear a headcloth.
This piece illustrates the influence of Balinese culture in west Lombok.
Physical characteristics
Category: Textile
Technique: Textile - Woven - Handwoven
Medium: metalic threads
Object: width 102cm height 184cm
Features
labelled 1973.05
Accession details
Accession number: ITC 2022.2
Accession date: 19/08/2022
Credit: Donated by Hywel Coleman
Source: Donation
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